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Latin America: Student experiences

Read about King's student's experiences of studying abroad in Latin America, and find out what life is like studying as a King's student at a partner university.  Please note, although the content is very comprehensive, covering issues from housing to recommended activities, the Global Mobility team are able to help with further outstanding advice and more up-to-date information.

Brazil

Anna Grimaldi, 2012-2013 at University of Minas Gerais

Top ten things

Belo Horizonte offers an extensive list of museums and galleries which will no doubt be on the top of your cultural to-do list, but in case you’re looking for something a little less generic, here is a list of the local gems which can offer a more personal experience of the city.

The campus: Although it might sound silly, spending a few hours between classes getting lost around campus is actually highly entertaining. The grounds seem never ending, and wandering around you will find students practising at a drumming jam session, learning how to tightrope walk, or having a debate in an abandoned courtyard. It's also a great idea to check out each department eatery - Music, for example, may treat you to some live samba while you eat your omelette. Also - check out the hundreds of cats in Letras.

Praça do Papa and Parque Mangabeiras: Praca do Papa is a great day out - just make sure you don't go when it's raining as there is no shelter. The square looks out over the city from high in the hills, from a quiet distance. Here you can buy a coconut to drink and you can also go for a walk around the Parque Mangabeiras which takes you even higher up for even better views.

The Estadios (Independencia e Mineirão): If you like football, this is a great way to have a day out and get involved with something that is close to the heart of almost every Brazilian. The smaller of the two stadiums, independencia, is not far from Santa Tereza and hosts local games, while Mineirao, situated near the UFMG campus, hosts bigger inter-city games and sometimes concerts.

Santa Tereza (bridge, square, train): Santa Tereza is the bohemian part of town, where there is always something going on. The suburb starts once you cross the famous Viaduto Santa Tereza from Praça Sete, which takes you over the old train lines and station. The area under the viaduct is used for all sorts of public student-organised events, which includes Brazil’s most famous weekly rap battle (or Duelo de Mcs) which takes place every Friday at about 8.30pm. The main square in Santa Tereza also hosts events, such as live concerts or festivals, as well as being home to some of the best restaurants, bars, or cafes for a lazy breakfast.

Lagoa de Pampulha: The Pumpulha Lake is about half an hour’s walk from UFMGs campus and is the perfect way to spend the morning or afternoon. Next to the lake, you can find a bicycle hire shop where for about £10 you can hire a bike for a few hours. The route around the lake is about 18km has many interesting stop-off points along the way. Most satisfying perhaps, are the works of Brazil’s most famous architect, Oscar Niemeyer, such as his chapel or the old casino (now an art museum)

Ouro Preto: Ouro Preto was Minas Gerais' former capital during colonial times. The tiny city has some of the region's best architecture and museums which offer some of the most significant elements of Brazil's history. It is also a student town, so there are endless parties and events to attend if you know the right people.

Bar do Cabral: Bar do Cabral is a bar situated opposite the main entrance to UFMG and, being open from 10am until the early hours of the morning every week day, is a great place to hang out before, between, or even after class. The bar is run by Cabral, a little old man who will be more than happy to practise his english and tell you some old stories. The drinks are all cheap and there is even a juke box - and next door is one of the city's best pastel shops.

Inhotim: Inhotim is a great place to go for a day trip on a Saturday. The coaches leave promptly at 9.30 from the central bus station  the Rodoviaria and come back at around 4.30pm. Inhotim hosts an enormous collection of outdoor interactive modern art and offers a beautiful setting for a peaceful back-to-nature day out.

Parque Municipal e o Mercado: On a lazy, sunny Sunday, the best thing you can do is go for  a stroll in the city's main park, the Parque Municipal, followed by visiting the Artesenal Market. The Market dominates the entirety of Avenida Afonso Pena, and sells anything from hand made shoes to Bahian style fried prawns.

Savassi and Praça Sete: For a slightly more upmarket night out, the best place is Savassi, which is home to many more European style restaurants. As well as this, the city's best clubs and bars are dotted around the area, with anything from rock and roll nights to 80's style DJs. If you want something more Brazilian, head to any of the bars nearer Praca Sete, which are identifiable by the plastic garden tables and chairs that spill onto the streets - or, for a student dominated area try the abandoned shopping mall.

Accommodation

The Universidade Federal de Minas Gerais is just outside the centre of the small city of Belo Horizonte.  Although the university has its own campus accommodation, this is not usually available to exchange student, but keep in mind that if you have a serious problem and speak to the right people, exceptions have been known to be made! The only secure option therefore, is to rent a room or an apartment in the city for your stay. As Belo Horizonte is very much a student city, there will be many options with short lets, shared rooms, and great services from landlords, however, renting directly from a landlord is next to impossible, even for Brazilians, so don't be put off by student houses, or republicas being run by other students, with cash-in-hand payments and no individual contracts.

Arriving: As it can be a little difficult and stressful to set up accommodation before arriving, the best thing to do is to check into a hostel or hotel for your first week or so, while you get a feel for the city, explore the transport system, and start searching for accommodation from within. As Belo Horizonte is quite small and not very touristy, the only places you will find to stay will be in the centre.

Some good websites to use for booking and researching hostels/hotels are:

www.hostelworld.com  www.roughguides.com  www.lonelyplanet.com

And once you’re there, the best place to start looking for accommodation would be either at the university campus itself, where there are many posters and adverts up all over the place, at local estate agents, or online.

Easyquarto is a great website which allows you to look up spare rooms, and for a little extra cost you can maintain more secure contact between you and the people letting the accomodation. However, as explained before, manyrepublicas are organized by students themselves, so the best thing to do is to get talking your new classmates!

Transport

Bus - Wherever you live in Belo Horizonte, you will end up having to use the bus, as it is the only form of transport that goes to most areas of the city, and many buses even run all night. However, you will be lucky to find a bus stop with any bus route or timetable information, so make sure to check everything online and ask the ticket collector, who is always happy to help, if you are not sure. Also keep in mind that the buses are heavily affected by rush hour and that journey times can take 2 or 3 times longer at these times!

Despite the recent protests, the bus costs around R$2.80 and there are travel cards available with deals for people who have to change buses.

Internal buses - There are great free buses for within the campus (which is quite big and confusing) for anyone living near the university, near or within the campus accommodations, or even for people who simply need to get from one side to another. However, some buses require special ID, so make sure to find out before you board.

Metro - although there is a fully functioning and quite organized metro system in Belo Horizonte, the areas it reaches are quite limited, and unfortunately do not reach the university. However, in case you are living further out and need to get into the city to get a bus, here is the map. At R$1.80 per journey, the metro is cheaper than the bus, and runs until about midnight.

(please note that when checked on 23/10/2013, only Linha 1 was functioning for the foreseeable future due to building projects)

Areas

Pampulha: Pampulha is the area nearest the university, and covers a range of smaller zones (such as Santa Teresinha or Rua Boaventura) which many students choose to live in. Renting in this area is of an average price (around R$400-600 a month), however you should take into consideration that it is a good half an hour from the centre, so if what you're after is more nightlife, this might not be the place for you!

Santa Tereza, Floresta, Sagrada Familia: These areas, especially Santa Tereza, are in the more bohemian part of town. Santa Tereza regularly hosts free concerts or other arts events, and the houses in this area are much older and European-looking, which large green areas and blossoming trees at every corner. Transport is good, and prices are average, so if you want something a bit closer to the alternative student scene, but don’t mind a bit more of a trek to university, this is the place for you.

Praça Sete: Praca Sete is in the main centre of the city, and some great places can be found if you look hard enough, however the area isn’t the safest, especially at night. However, if you can brave this, the area will be great for going out and getting around.

Savassi: Savassi, just south of the main centre, is the more exclusive side of town. Accomodation here will be more expensive but the advantage is the safety and modernity, as well as more classy restaurants, bars, and shopping centres.

Carlos Prates: Carlos Prates is also a popular area for students, for the prices and transport connections. However, be aware that not much really goes on in this area, and apart from mechanics and bicycle shops, there are not many places to hang out.

Catering: Buying food to cook in supermarkets can be a bit of a hassle and a little expensive if you are on a typical student budget, so most people eat out. In Belo Horizonte, most places work with buffet-style food which you either pay for before and take unlimited amounts, or pay by weight. In most departments there are great cantinas, but if you want more value for money make sure to check out the student catering called 'Bandejão', which costs just R$4.20... but remember you will need your matricula (proof of study) or your student visa to get this price.

Things to consider 

  • Price range

  • Location

  • Length of stay

  • Self-catered/catered

  • Who you will be living with

  • Furnished/Unfurnished

  • Distance to the nearest bus stop

Studying

Modules

During your application to UFMG, you should have already chosen between four and eight ‘cursos’ from one particular department, for example ‘Belas Artes’ or ‘Ciencias Sociais’. However, the great thing with UFMG is that upon arrival you can not only change these modules, but mix them up, choosing up to five different classes from five different departments. The vast majority of modules are for one semester only, so if you are staying the whole year you will get the chance to choose again later on.

In UFMG there will be both ‘optativos’ and ‘obligatorios’. As an exchange student, you should choose the optativos, as they are far more interesting and are specific to Brazil. At UFMG you usually have to take 5x4 credit modules, making a total of 20 credits, however, some classes will be worth more or less, usually depending on the number of contact hours and workload, so make sure!  Modules can be checked on the website.

Assessment

Assessment, like in King's, is usually a combination of coursework, end of term written exams, and a presentation. As there are so many course options, many classes are a very practical size of about 5-10 students and, similar to seminars, work by reading a text every week, and discussing it openly in class with your fellow students and tutor. An assessed presentation will usually be allocated and will consist of you presenting a topics to your classmates before the teacher expands on it.

The set-up of exams in UFMG is much less formal than what you will be used to, so if, for example, you are feeling a lack of confidence about a timed exam to be written in Portuguese, you can always speak to the teacher and see if they can offer you a less pressurized form of assessment.  Attendance and participation is also important, so make sure to show up and give your opinion in class, even if you are feeling shy.

Exams usually happen at the in the middle and at the end of the semester, and again this can be flexible, so be sure to let your individual teachers know if you need to head home or to get to your next semester in another country.

Academic help

After your initial ‘exchange student’ briefing at UFMG, you will quickly become familiar with the friendly Study Abroad team, who are always on hand to help with any general problems and initial admin. Their office is called the ‘DR’ and they are located in the middle of the campus. However, for any more specific problems, such as obtaining proof of study or changing modules etc, you will have to go to the individual department administration offices, which have much more Brazilian opening and closing times.

If you have any doubts, or need advice on what courses are good to take, you can always write to your department at home who should be able to put you in contact with someone who has been to UFMG before.

Other Perks

As a student at UFMG, you can gain access to any of the libraries on site, which usually have great areas to study in and even free computers.

To print things, you can go to most departments which will print straight from email or via their computers (watch out for the queues for the latter) and they also have their own genius system of documenting any compulsory and optional reading material for every course (book extracts, articles etc) which you can print at a low cost.

At UFMG, there will be many free events (plays and concerts etc), meetings, political debates, and even extra-curricular classes such as yoga organized by students.

If you are on a student budget, there is an eatery called 'Bandejão', which costs just R$4.20... but remember you will need your matricula (proof of study) or your student visa to get this price.

On the UFMG campus there is even a gym with a pool which costs just R$10 to join!

WATCH OUT

When applying for a Student Visa for Brazil, you will be required

a) to make the application from your country of permanent residence and

b) to give them proof of study and results from your previous semester.

This means that if you completed your first study abroad semester in Mexico, for example, you should make sure to obtain proof of study (which can be a lengthy process) before you go home to make the visa application, or it could be a wasted trip.

Weekend activities

During the day on a Friday or Saturday in Belo Horizonte you have lots of great options. One would be taking yourself on the walking tour of Santa Tereza and the Municipal park. Starting in Santa Terezas square, where there are usually bands or events according to the time of year, you can cross the Viaducto Santa Tereza, under which you’ll see one of Brazil’s oldest train lines. On the other side of the bridge, entering the city centre, you will arrive at the Municipal Park, a stunning and peaceful 45 acres of exotic trees, garden, ponds, birds and cats. Many, many cats.  

Day trips

Saturday morning is an especially good opportunity to attempt a day trip. One option is Inhotim, an outdoor contemporary art museum that stretches across 3,000 acres and offers the most bizarre modern artwork, interactive experiences, and impressive natural landscape. The bus leaves from the Rodoviaria on platform F2 at 09.15 and will bring you back at 17.00. A further option is Ouro Preto, one of the country’s most impressive colonial mining towns where you can learn all about the most important period of Brazil’s history in the countless museums, visit one of the hundreds of churches, or venture into one of the old mines. A word of advice: watch out for the very steep hills, and be prepared to work hard to get around.

Sunday mornings are the perfect opportunity to get yourself to the Artisan Market held on Avenida Afonso Pena, in front of the municipal park. The market sells artisanal products ranging from Northeastern traditional foods, to shoes, to furniture – all at very reasonable prices and mostly all hand-made (watch out for fakes!).

Another great morning or afternoon activity is to visit the Lagoa de Pampulha in the North West of the city, right next to UFMG. The lake is outlined by 18km of pathways for visitors to either walk or cycle along which are dotted with amazing views, weird wildlife (including a harmless old alligator and families of capybaras) and lots of architectural treats – the lake is home to five works of the famous Oscar Niemeyer, including an old boat house and one of Brazil’s first casinos.

Weekend evenings are a great time to check out some of the city’s finer eateries. Heading into town towards between Praça Sete and Savassi, you will find an array of colourful and very different places. Most restaurants in Minas work with a ‘buffet’ system, where you can pile as much as you want on your plate and just pay for the weight of the food, or if you’re lucky, a set price. You will also see lots of places which will be referred to as ‘copo sujo’ – which refers to the tacky plastic garden chairs and tables and lack of anything on the menu that isn’t beer. But don’t be put off, these places are great for get-togethers; they are cheap and cheerful and you can order a great deal of tapa-style dishes to share. 

Shopping Malls are also a great option for eating – they usually have a whole floor dedicated to restaurants and fast food. If you prefer something a bit more upmarket, Savassi will offer just that, with traditional European style restaurants with table service and excellent dishes.

For a great night out, Savassi and Praça Sete are the places to stay. Either stay out in the bars or hit some of the area’s clubs such as Velvet or Na Sala. On a Friday night it is worth checking out UFMG’s own local bar – Bar do Cabral – where students stay until the early hours dancing to the jukebox.

Reflections

Here I am, coming to the end of term, and it has been exactly seven months since I returned from the last leg of my travels through Brazil, and almost nineteen months since I first set foot on the tarmac at Mexico City's international airport. So what are my thoughts?

For anyone who watches the Big Bang Theory, post-travel syndrome will have been understood as Wolowitz’s incessant bragging and reminiscing. Is this a reality? Absolutely.  In the past seven months, I have constantly found myself, much to everyone’s annoyance, thinking about how one year ago today I climbed a volcano or one year ago today I was celebrating Mexican Independence Day and so on and so forth. Unlike Wolowitz however, I have mostly learned to subdue my reliving of the past, and keep it between the people who I travelled with.

Does this mean that my year abroad is now sitting calmly in the back of my mind alongside all the other forgotten bits of history? Of course not. In fact, I would go as far to say that my year aboard experience has shaped almost every decision I have made since arriving back at King’s. The first thing I did, for example, was apply for and take on a part-time job at the study abroad office as a Peer Advisor – my main jobs being to help other students about to go abroad, and to help incoming exchange students settle in. However, this probably encouraged more of the Wolowitz-esque obsessive talk than necessary.

To be completely honest, coming back at first was not at all easy.  After seeing and learning so much, falling in love with so many aspects of the places I visited and settled in, and having so many freedoms, it was excruciating to have to return to something old; to stop learning and seeing as it were, and to settle back into a normal life of routine and responsibility. For one, I made the bad habit of never living in the same place for more than about a month for fear of settling in too much and not having the courage to leave again.

But speaking from the other side of this experience, I can say that it was entirely worth it. Academically, the year abroad was absolutely priceless. The direct contact with Mexican and Brazilian culture gave me a basic but genuine passion for my subject that I had never had before; it has given me direction in my degree and final year dissertation and, to many people’s surprise, a desire to continue in post-graduate education. It meant I could make the most of my time at King's, something I now appreciate all the more. And, let’s be honest; my spoken Portuguese is now so amazing that people believe I’m Brazilian if I say so.

Spiritual and academic awakenings aside, I must take the opportunity to underline just how exciting the near future is looking. I am just about to finish my degree, I have applied for an English teaching assistantship placement through the British Council in Chile, and in about ten days I will be going to Argentina to tour a couple of universities that I might apply to for a Master's.  For someone who not long ago wasn't exactly very aware of the world, not so great grades, and no idea of what she wanted to do in life, I can safely say that studying abroad was most literally the best thing I could ever have decided to do.

And most importantly is the improvement to my love life. I am now in a deep and meaningful relationship with Tequila.

Zoe Morrison-Griffiths, 2013-2014 at Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro

Top ten things

Centro: Spending time wandering around Centro in Rio may not be high up on a tourist’s checklist of things to do, but some of the most beautiful and historical buildings can be found in this bairro. A walking tour through Centro is the best way to learn about Rio’s history and enjoy the architecture from Rio’s Belle Époque. Catete Palace, or the former presidential palace, is another must see, as is Confeitaria Colombo, one of the most beautiful and luxurious cafes in the world! Be sure to get a picture of the café from the upstairs for the best view.

Beaches: Rio is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world- with Ipanema and Copacabana being the most famous and the busiest. But there are many beaches a little bit further out that are well worth a visit as well, such as Barra da Tijuca, Rio’s largest beach, and São Conrado, where you can organise hang-gliding trips. There are lots of different sports on offer on most of Rio’s beaches such as beach volleyball or football, and you can head to Copacabana or Ipanema to have a go at stand up paddle-boarding as well. Make sure to spend an evening on Arpoador, or the rocks that separate Ipanema and Copacabana, to watch the sun set over the Dois Irmãos- it’s a beautiful view and everybody applauds as the sun goes down!

Santa Teresa: Santa Teresa is one of the oldest parts of Rio de Janeiro, and it’s nice to spend a day wandering around the cobblestone streets and taking in the colonial architecture. Santa Teresa is also home to the famous Escaderia Selarón, the set of steps that are covered in thousands of different tiles with all sorts of different designs and patterns. I was excited to see lots of tiles from the UK, including several from my hometown of Liverpool! You can also climb the steps all the way to the top and visit the Parque das Ruinas, which has a beautiful view of the city.

Weekends away: One of the great things about Rio de Janeiro is the number of beach towns nearby that are perfect for weekends away! Whilst in Rio, I visited Paraty, Saquarema, Ilha Grande and Angra dos Reis which were all absolutely beautiful places that were less than five hours by coach away. Coach travel is cheap in Brazil, especially if you book in advance, and really nice beachside accommodation is a fraction of the cost of hostels in Rio. Paraty and Ilha Grande were my highlights- both offered amazing all day boat tours of all lots of different islands for the equivalent of less than ten pounds! There are also activities such as trips to nearby waterfalls and surfing.

Carnaval: Nothing can prepare you for the spectacle or the madness of Carnaval- it officially lasts for around five days but the celebrations go on for much longer, with street parties starting from as early as 9am and going on well into the night. These samba-based street parties, called blocos, take place all over the city for the duration of Carnival and are often themed- there is a famous Beatles themed bloco in Gloria and even a Super Mario one in Santa Teresa! Of course, the famous parades in the Sambódromo are a must see, but if you don’t feel like spending lots of money on a ticket, do what the locals do and watch the rehearsals for the parade for free the week before.  

Brazilian food: There are so many foods that I had never even heard of before I arrived in Brazil that quickly became a regular part of my diet- feijao, a black bean stew, and farofa, are Brazilian staples that come with absolutely everything that you order, even in KFC. At the beginning of my stay, I wondered why everyone was so keen on farofa, which to me seemed to look and taste like sand, but by the time I had to come home it was one of my favourites! I also loved the fruit stalls that are found on most street corners that sell the freshest juice and the delicious acai na tigela which is all you need during the boiling hot weather during the summer.

Caipirinhas: The most famous Brazilian drink is, of course, the caipirinha- and the best way to enjoy one of them is to go to one of the many kiosks that line Rio’s beaches. Many different types and flavours are available, with pineapple and passion fruit being the most popular. If you find you are keen on caipirinhas, make sure to check out the Academia de Cachaça in Leblon.

Nightlife and Samba: Nights out in Rio often start out right under the Arcos de Lapa, the arches of the old aqueduct in the region of Lapa. Here you will find hundreds of stalls with beer and cheap caipirinhas of all different flavours, and crowds of people standing around having a drink. There are also many clubs in Lapa, including some famous samba venues that are as popular with the locals as they are with tourists. Rio Scenarium is well worth a visit despite the queue that can often stretch down the street- it’s a club spread over three stories of a beautiful old building that has to be seen to be believed! Carioca da Gema is a less fancy but very traditional samba venue, where people of all ages come to dance to the incredible live music. Another way to enjoy Rio nightlife is to attend one of the Rodas de samba, which are street parties that take place every week with live music, dancing and lots of caipirinhas- Pedra do Sal is one of the most famous and takes place every Monday.

The nature: One of the best and most unforgettable aspects of my time in Rio is the sheer beauty of the city and the nature that surrounds you everywhere you go- seeing monkeys climbing the telephone poles by my building was a common occurrence that I loved! Rio is also home to a rainforest called Floresta de Tijuca, which has some absolutely stunning views of the city as well as waterfalls and all kinds of wildlife including monkeys, hummingbirds and toucans. You can organise jeep tours of Tijuca forest fairly cheaply or just take the bus to the entrance and hike. Another way to enjoy the nature and wildlife of Rio is by spending a day at the Jardim Botânico where you can find all kinds of different animals, an orchid house and a beautiful outdoor café.

Being a tourist: Some of the best views of Rio can of course be seen from two of the city’s most famous landmarks and most popular tourist destinations, Sugar Loaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer. You can buy tickets for the cable car or the train to get to the top of each attraction- which are half price with student ID- but it is possible to hike up both, which is a great way to see even more of the wildlife! I was very excited to see iguanas up close during my hike up Morro da Urca, the smaller of the two peaks of Sugar Loaf. Make sure to visit these on clear days to make the most of the stunning views. 

Accommodation

UFRJ does not have student halls for exchange students, so you will have to organise your own accommodation. This was a daunting prospect for me before I arrived in Brazil, as contacting landlords and arranging viewings in Portuguese definitely felt like being thrown in at the deep end, but I managed to find a really nice flat right on Botafogo beach within two weeks of arriving. 

Arriving: I would recommend booking a hostel for the first two weeks of your stay, but you can always extend this for longer if you end up needing more time. You can use websites like hostelworld to compare prices and locations of hostels really easily. When it comes to location, it’s best to stay within Zona Sul- the southern zone of Rio. This is the safer side of town, and is also where you will find most of the more popular tourist destinations and beaches. After you have settled in, the first thing on the agenda is setting up a Brazilian phone. Bringing a cheap pay-as-you-go phone with you is a good idea, but will not necessarily be compatible with Brazilian SIM cards- I ended up having to buy a new phone for about 40 reais (£10). Then, you can buy SIM cards from the newspaper stands dotted around most main streets, but you may need to go to a mobile phone shop with your passport to get this activated. Once your phone is sorted, you’re ready to start your flat hunt! This may seem scary- I always found speaking on the phone more challenging than speaking in person- but it’s a great way to practice your Portuguese, and you can always ask for them to confirm certain details with you, such as addresses, via text.

How to find accommodation: I used a website called easyquarto.com.br to search for places, and it was really useful because you can upload a personal profile onto the website which allows landlords to search for you whilst you are searching for a flat. This is actually how I got my flat- my landlady saw my profile and sent me a message, and it ended up being a really nice place right on Botafogo beach. I would therefore definitely recommend filling in your profile as thoroughly as possible to increase your chances of being contacted by flats whilst you are flat hunting yourself. As well as easyquarto, there is a website called bomnegócio.com which is like a Brazilian gumtree, and I knew lots of people that found their flat that way.  As well as these websites, there is an exchange student society in Rio that is similar to Erasmus called REI (Rede de Estudantes de Intercâmbio) that run a Facebook moradias group which posts new flats every day and is a good way to meet other exchange students also looking for somewhere to stay.

When you arrive, the task of finding somewhere to live may seem quite daunting, as lots of flats seem to be snapped up almost as soon as they are advertised, but don’t worry- the key is persistence and to be using your phone rather than email to get in contact with landlords to get in there as quickly as you can! I also think it’s worthwhile to hold out until you find somewhere that you feel happy with. Accommodation in Rio is not cheap compared to other Brazilian cities (I paid 1200 reais a month, or £300) so you should try and get your money’s worth!

In terms of where to stay, the general advice given to exchange students is to stay within Zona Sul as it tends to be safer, but of course this is a generalisation and you can find nice accommodation in lots of different parts of Rio. Many exchange students live in Copacabana or Ipanema, which is great for proximity to beaches but these are very touristy neighbourhoods. Botafogo, Humaitá and Jardim Botânico are bairros with more of a laidback feel and lots of traditional bars and restaurants to enjoy, but you will have to catch a bus or the metro to get to a non-polluted beach. Transport is very easy to negotiate in Rio- you can buy a travel card that works just like an Oyster to use the buses and the metro, neither of which are expensive- and everywhere in Zona Sul is pretty well connected.

Studying 

Modules: You will provisionally sign up for a few modules before you arrive- this is just so they can register you with whatever faculdades that you will be studying within. However, these choices aren’t set in stone- you can drop and pick up different modules from within the faculties you’ve been registered in once you arrive. Different faculties are based at different campuses with Letras, Artes and Arquitetura being based at Ilha do Fundão. This is a forty-minute bus journey from Zona Sul, but buses are quite frequent and not too expensive. You will have an enormous range of modules to choose from- UFRJ will send you an email containing a huge handbook with all of the options- and you can take Portuguese language lessons at the university as well.

Assessment: Assessment will be different for each module, and information about this will be sent to you before you have to make your final module decisions. UFRJ can assess you in many of the same ways that King’s does, either through regular homework, exams, essays or presentations, but sometimes attendance can form a part of your grade as well, so be sure to check if this applies to your modules.

Academic Help: If you are struggling within one of your classes, the best thing to do is to speak directly to your teacher either after the lesson or via email. All the teachers I met at UFRJ were lovely and really helpful, especially to foreign students, so you shouldn’t have any issues with them. As well as this, don’t forget that your personal tutor is there to help you even while you are away, and you can always send them an email if you are struggling with your faculty at UFRJ.

Weekend activities

Rio’s location on the coast means that it’s the perfect destination for weekends away at one of the many nearby beach towns, as mentioned above. However, Brazil is one of the most beautiful and varied countries to travel in the world, so it is definitely worthwhile planning some trips slightly further afield. São Paulo is very easy to get to from Rio, being just six hours away by coach. This might seem like a long time to spend on a coach, but coach travel in South America is very different from the Megabus/National Express nightmare of the UK. The ônibus is a much more popular means of transport in Brazil than it is in this country- when purchasing a ticket you often can choose what classe of seat you want, ranging from the very basic to seats that turn into beds. The semi-leito option is often not too expensive and can make a long journey much easier!

As well as São Paulo, visiting the South of Brazil is something you definitely won’t regret. I planned a trip travelling down the coast of Brazil from Rio to Florianópolis, a beautiful island city that has been dubbed ‘the best place to live in Brazil’, and from there, we went on to the Iguaçu Falls. Foz de Iguaçu is an absolutely incredible place that really has to be seen to be believed- it has a Brazilian side and an Argentinian side, and although it is worthwhile taking a couple of days to see both, the Argentinian side is bigger and from there you can take cheap boat tours right into the waterfalls.

As well as travelling within Brazil, there are many coaches and lots of cheap flights that connect Rio with surrounding countries, so organising international travel is extremely easy. Rio is one of the most expensive cities in South America, so travelling around different countries, you will notice a big difference in the price of accommodation, travel and how far your money can go.   

Reflections

Deciding on where to go for my Year Abroad felt like it was such an enormous decision and that there was so much to consider. I felt strongly that I wanted to visit Brazil and experience the culture that I had studied first-hand, but I had practical concerns about cost, distance and even safety. Ultimately, I decided that the opportunity to live and study in Brazil was an opportunity that I couldn’t miss, and I can say with confidence that it was the best decision I could have made.

It can feel quite daunting to land in a country six thousand miles away from home for a stay of at least five months, especially if you haven’t entirely mastered the language! However, I think that these challenges are part of the value of the year abroad and are invaluable in terms of improving your language skills and confidence.

Living in a home stay in Brazil was a once in a lifetime opportunity for me, and I couldn’t recommend the experience enough. It may seem like every blog that you read or person you speak to about Year Abroad says the same thing, but it is true that the whole experience is so worthwhile and will leave you wishing you could stay for longer. Five months may seem like a long time when you land, but the whole semester will go by in a flash. So I think that the best advice I can give is to make the most of every second of your time abroad- and to take lots of pictures.

Mexico

Anna Grimaldi, Universidad Nacional Autónoma, 2012-2013

Top ten things

1. Walk around the campus: Although this sounds pretty obvious, and will happen naturally (Honestly, you WILL get lost around campus during your first few days), I think anyone at UNAM should make a specific effort to explore the university grounds. Calling the campus huge is not enough; just to put it into perspective, there are about twelve different internal buses, some covering about 10km, that are needed to get between departments (check out Ruta 10, which covers the ‘zona cultural’). To add to its impressiveness, the campus is dotted with stunning architecture, murals, sculptures, and eateries.

2. Teotihuacan: Saying that you can get around the city without enduring long, hot coach journeys would be untrue. So, once you are used to this, jump on a coach from the North Terminal Bus Station and make your way to Teotihuacan, an ancient Aztec city. Be warned that in hotter seasons, Teotihuacan’s exposure makes the heat unbearable, so bring an umbrella and plenty of water. Teotihuacan is one of the best preserved examples of Aztec perfection at its best, and if you can read up on the separate elements which make up the site before you go, you will appreciate the fine details all the more.

3. Xochimilco: Xochimilco is one of the only surviving Aztec-built parts of the city. It’s situated about 28 km south of Mexico City, meaning another long bus ride. What’s different about Xochimilco is that it is made up of a clever network of canals, which you can explore by hiring a boat and a driver. You can also bring all your friends, hire speakers to play your music, and bring your own drinks for the ride. Xochimilco is also home to a rare creature; the Axolotl, which is famously capable of regeneration, and when introduced to certain hormones, can metamorphose into a salamander. As you drift through the canals, you can pick up lunch (tamales or maybe a coconut), buy souvenirs, or hire a floating Mariachi band to serenade your new Mexican lover with a song.

4. Coyoacan: Coyoacan was the centre of Mexico City during colonial times, and has remained the centre for cultural activity until today. There you can find the Artisanal market (which sadly, is not very artisanal anymore, but still amazing), a colonial church, the plaza de los coyotes, and the old houses/museums of Leon Trotsky, Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Be sure to check out the Italian consulate too, which requires a passport, but has a beautiful garden and cafe and offers a refreshingly peaceful retreat from the busy plaza.

5. The Nameless Bookshop and Torta place: On Avenida Universidad, heading north from UNAM’s campus, you can find an amazing second hand bookshop, which sells pretty much anything you can imagine, for wonderful prices. For book lovers, this shop is a great few hours of your afternoon. And, just a block or so further up the road, you can find the best torta shop in the area, which for thirty pesos or so will give you a mouth-watering meal satisfying enough to last the whole day. I recommend the chorizo, huevo y queso option, with extra avocado and chipotle.

6. Torre Latinoamericano: When you are checking out the main centre of the city (the Zocalo, the museums, the plaza de las tres culturas etc), you will most probably not notice this tower. But it is spectacular, and with 46 floors was the first ever skyscraper to be successfully built on seismic terrain. What isn’t so well known is that not only can you go in, but you can avoid the tourist fees for the view by heading to the second to last floor, where there is a decently priced restaurant and bar, one facing each side of the city. The best time of day to go is just before sunset, so you can look out over the madness that is Mexico City as night takes over while you sip on your drink. Oh, and while you’re there, check out the toilets; the walls are made of glass.

7. Bosque de Chapultepec: The Chapultepec Park is the biggest city park in Latin America and serves as the lungs of Mexico city; the 686 hectares of green replenish the city with much needed oxygen. The ‘first section’ of the park is the oldest and busiest; here you can see monuments, museums, a castle, Toltec altar remains, the Lago Menor and even a zoo. It is also home to the namesake of the Park; Chapultepec Hill – which in Nahuatl means grasshopper hill. The second section is where you can find the Lago Mayor, jogging trails, and restaurant and cafes to stop for a bite. The third section is largely unexplored, designed as an ecological preserve for local flora and fauna, and has recently become home to about 150 feral dogs.

8. Roma: Roma is truly the most fashionable area of the city. With endless parties, alternative exhibitions and intimate gigs, it is not unlike some of London’s more bohemian areas. The area was also close to the hearts of many of the New York writers of the Beat Generation, including Jack Kerouac and William S Borroughs back in the 40s and 50s. This area is great any night of the week, so make sure to check out some of its best bars, such as Covadonga, La Botica (the cash-only mezcaleria) and Travazares.

9. Mercado Lagunilla: Lagunilla, at about ten blocks north of the Zocalo, requires a bus or underground ride to get to. The market, which includes both the fixed building and the hundreds of street market stalls, is one of the largest in the country. With a mad variety of products ranging from local delicacies, to made-to-order furniture, to fake Lacoste shoes, the Lagunilla market could require a few visits, and will certainly save you some pennies when buying gifts or authentic souvenirs to take home. Be careful though, the market is also home to some sneaky merchants who might target any obvious tourists, so bring along your new Mexican friends to help barter, and don’t flash your iPhones.

10. El Museu Nacional: The City’s museum is worth setting aside a whole day for. If you are enrolled at UNAM, it’s worth knowing that you can also get in for free if you have your student card, as you can for all national museums and archaeological sites in the country belonging to the INAH (el instituto nacional de antropologia y historia). The museum is an excellent way to learn all about the vast and colourful civilizations of Mexico, and maybe to look into what other areas you would like to visit around the country. Near the entrance of the museum, stands one of the country’s most interesting archeological finds, a seven-meter-tall-168-tonne statue of the water Goddess, Chalchiuhtlicue, from Coatlinchan. According to people in the area, from the moment it was unearthed in 1964, until the minute it was installed in its current location, the heavens of Mexico opened up to heavy rains, completely out of rhythm with the country’s famously regular rainy seasons. If the mind-blowing weight of all the new information gets too much, the museum’s doors open onto Bosque Chapultepec where you can relax (see number 7).

Accommodation

At the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, there are unfortunately no campus accommodation options, so it will be up to you to find the right place in the city during your stay. The best thing to do is to rent a room in a house, or, if you are staying for a more definite amount of time (6 or 12 months), you can rent a whole house or apartment together with your colleagues. Both Mexico City and UNAM’s campus are huge, so there are a lot of things to consider.            

Arriving:  As it is very difficult and a little unsafe to set up accommodation before arriving, the best thing to do is to check into a hostel or hotel for your first week or so, while you get a feel for the city, explore the transport system, and start searching for accommodation from within. The best place to stay for this first period is Coyoacan, which is a very safe and well connected area close enough to UNAM to get a good picture of how your student life might pan out. Another option is to stay near the city centre, which although farther from campus, will give you a great starting point if you want to look at a wider spectrum of areas to settle into.

And once you’re there, the best place to start looking for accommodation would be either at the university campus itself, where there are many posters and adverts up all over the place, at local estate agents, or online.

CompartoDepa is a great website, which for a few American dollars, will give you access to the most popular advertising space for landlords in the country. There will be thousands of options, so it is best to think about what you really want in your accommodation, and then email everyone with further questions before setting up viewings.

Transport: There are many type of bus in the giant that is Mexico City. For local trips, there are the cheap Peseros, which, as suggested by the name, cost between MX$1 and MX$3. They can usually be stopped anywhere on the route, but can quickly become packed. There is also the Metrobus which is similar to a tram, and runs the bigger roads that cut through the city at high speed. For these you will need a card. For inside the university, you have thePumabus, which, considering the immense size of the campus, you will have to learn to use. 

The metro is also a great option. Although at rush hours they can be impossible, they have a very considerate ‘women’s coach’ on every train. One trip will cost MX$3 and the closest and safest station to the university is Copilco

Taxis are also an option. If you are used to a London budget, the price of a taxi journey will seem impossibly good (just to put it into perspective, you can get across the equivalent of Croydon to Camden in rush hour for about £6). But make sure to get a red and gold taxi, not a private one, as they are known to take advantage of foreigners.               

Areas: The area you live in will depend much on your budget and your priorities, and can affect your lifestyle during your time there!

Coyoacan (pictured): Coyoacan is the more European and bohemian area of the city, with beautiful houses, quiet parks and cultural institutes making up the main centre.  The centre can be a little more expensive, but there are some great areas around that will cost a bit less, such as Avenida Universidad, Miguel Angel de Quevedo, or Copilco.

Universidad: Universidad, just south of the University Campus offers the cheapest accommodation, and good transport connections, however it is known to be quite dangerous, so don’t get carried away!

Roma: Roma is home to some of the hippest bars, clubs, events and shops in the city, not unlike East London. It was the favourite area of the Beat Generation in the 50s and is great for anyone worried about their social life. The area is a little more expensive, and a bit far, but if you are willing to make these compromises Roma is an excellent choice.

Polanco: Polanco is another more expensive area, but without the noise and action of Roma. Polanco is very exclusive and safe. It will offer fantastic restaurants and shops, and is very close to the main city centre, but again is quite far away from the campus.

Did you know? It is very common for landlords or landladies to hold strict rules on who they rent their house or rooms to, and many houses will only be let to either boys or girls. Another element to this is that some places might have rules, such as no overnight guests or no visits, so make sure to ask!

Things to consider when choosing your accommodation option:

  • Price range 

  • Self-catered/catered Location 

  • Who you will be living with 

  • Length of stay

  • Furnished/Unfurnished

Studying

Modules: During your application to UNAM, you should have already chosen between four and eight ‘cursos’ from one particular department, for example ‘Filosofia y Letras’ or ‘Ciencias Politicas’, as it is unlikely that you will be able to mix and match as an exchange student . The vast majority of modules are for one semester only, so if you are staying the whole year you will get the chance to choose again later on.

In UNAM there will be both ‘optativos’ and ‘obligatorios’. As an exchange student, you should choose the optativos, as they will count towards your exchange, are far more interesting and are specific to Mexico. All optativos are available for any student, whether in first or final year, and so the way to check their validity is via the credits. For UNAM you should have 16 credits per semester, which is usually in the format of 4x four-credit classes.

As there are so many options, many classes are a very practical size of about 5-20 students.  

Assessment: Assessment, like in King's, is usually a combination of coursework and end of term written exams. The set-up of exams in UNAM is much less formal than what you will be used to, so if, for example, you are feeling a lack of confidence about a timed exam to be written in Spanish, you can always speak to the teacher and see if they can offer you a less pressurized form of assessment.  Attendance and participation is also important, so make sure to show up and give your opinion in class, even if you are feeling shy.

Exams usually happen at the in the middle and at the end of the semester, and again this can be flexible, so be sure to let your individual teachers know if you need to head home or to get to your next semester in another country.

As a student at UNAM, you can use any one of the libraries and also any museum belonging to the INAH (instituto nacional de antropoligia e historia) for free, so get to the DGAE (direccion general de administracion escolar) and ask to make a student card. 

Academic Help: If you need help choosing, changing or even dropping some of your subjects, make sure to visit the department course administrator. But be careful, most adjustments have strict deadlines; usually that courses can only be changed in the first week of the semester and can only be dropped in the second.

This administrator will also be able to help you get your study agreement form signed, or at least point you in the right direction of who can.

If you have any doubts, or need advice on what courses are good to take, you can always write to your department at home who should be able to put you in contact with someone who has been to UNAM before.

Any administrative documents or official applications will require photos of 3x4cm, not regular passport size ones, so make sure to get a few taken when you arrive to carry around with you during your first few weeks.

Classes run from about 8am until 11pm, and some can be about three hours long with no breaks (although you will see some students come and go as they feel necessary).

UNAM is a very, very large university. Administrative issues will be dealt with very slowly, and sometimes it can take a few days to locate the right person with the right office hours, which are usually a little vague. Be sure to stay calm and patient and think Mexican.

Weekend activities

Mexico City is one of the world’s biggest and busiest city’s, so getting around and planning a short visit can be difficult. So, here are a few suggestions to get you started and avoid wasting time.         

If you want to dedicate a whole day to a something a little different, you can head to the South or North bus terminal and get on a coach to one of the city’s nearby attractions, such as Teotihuacan the ancient Aztec city, or Xochimilco an Aztect network of canals where you can hire a boat and enjoy the unusual sights for a few hours. If you prefer something calmer and less dependent on the weather (which can sometimes be too hot), why not head to INHA’s National Museum of Anthropology opposite the Chapultepec Park. Bear in mind that most museums are free on Sundays, so this might be the best time to go!

For a lazy afternoon in Mexico City the options are endless. If you prefer a bit of window shopping, you can head to Palacio de Hierro, an upmarket shopping complex that holds locations all around the city. If you prefer to experience shopping like a local, you can always head to some of the city’s indoor and outdoor markets, such as the Mercado Lagunilla. But be careful, these markets can be known for pickpockets, so make sure to keep your guard up, and your haggling mode on. On Sundays, the market extends, spilling onto more streets than usual, and becoming much more crowded. For an incredible way to finish off your day, head to 43rd floor of the Torre Latinoamericana, where you can sip on a decently priced cocktail or coffee and watch the sun setting over the city.

Another great place to spend the day is Coyoacan. Coyoacan was the centre of Mexico City during colonial times, and has remained the centre for cultural activity until today. There you can find the Artisanal market, a colonial church, the plaza de los coyotes, and a range of museums. This bohemian part of town is also home to one of the best food markets around, where you can try some of the less commercial delicacies, such as crickets or blue tortillas.

Mexico city is great for nightlife. If you head to Roma or Condesa, you will find some of the more alternative options. To start the night, you can try out one of the area’s pulquerias or mezcalerias where you can intimately acquaint yourself with the country’s best alcoholic creations. Later on, you can hit some of the town’s night clubs, which range from local band nights to celebrity parties to raves. If you prefer something a little less hectic, you can try out some of the bars near Copilco, where most UNAM students go out.

Reflections

Here I am, coming to the end of term, and it has been exactly seven months since I returned from the last leg of my travels through Brazil, and almost nineteen months since I first set foot on the tarmac at Mexico City's international airport. So what are my thoughts?

For anyone who watches the Big Bang Theory, post-travel syndrome will have been understood as Wolowitz’s incessant bragging and reminiscing. Is this a reality? Absolutely.  In the past seven months, I have constantly found myself, much to everyone’s annoyance, thinking about how one year ago today I climbed a volcano or one year ago today I was celebrating Mexican Independence Day and so on and so forth. Unlike Wolowitz however, I have mostly learned to subdue my reliving of the past, and keep it between the people who I travelled with.

Does this mean that my year abroad is now sitting calmly in the back of my mind alongside all the other forgotten bits of history? Of course not. In fact, I would go as far to say that my year aboard experience has shaped almost every decision I have made since arriving back at King’s. The first thing I did, for example, was apply for and take on a part-time job at the study abroad office as a Peer Advisor – my main jobs being to help other students about to go abroad, and to help incoming exchange students settle in. However, this probably encouraged more of the Wolowitz-esque obsessive talk than necessary.

To be completely honest, coming back at first was not at all easy.  After seeing and learning so much, falling in love with so many aspects of the places I visited and settled in, and having so many freedoms, it was excruciating to have to return to something old; to stop learning and seeing as it were, and to settle back into a normal life of routine and responsibility. For one, I made the bad habit of never living in the same place for more than about a month for fear of settling in too much and not having the courage to leave again.

But speaking from the other side of this experience, I can say that it was entirely worth it. Academically, the year abroad was absolutely priceless. The direct contact with Mexican and Brazilian culture gave me a basic but genuine passion for my subject that I had never had before; it has given me direction in my degree and final year dissertation and, to many people’s surprise, a desire to continue in post-graduate education. It meant I could make the most of my time at King's, something I now appreciate all the more. And, let’s be honest; my spoken Portuguese is now so amazing that people believe I’m Brazilian if I say so.

Spiritual and academic awakenings aside, I must take the opportunity to underline just how exciting the near future is looking. I am just about to finish my degree, I have applied for an English teaching assistantship placement through the British Council in Chile, and in about ten days I will be going to Argentina to tour a couple of universities that I might apply to for a Master's.  For someone who not long ago wasn't exactly very aware of the world, not so great grades, and no idea of what she wanted to do in life, I can safely say that studying abroad was most literally the best thing I could ever have decided to do.

And most importantly is the improvement to my love life. I am now in a deep and meaningful relationship with Tequila.

Katie Schwartz, 2012-2013 at Tecnologico de Monterrey (Edith Baer fund recipient)

Accommodation

If you choose to study at the Tec de Monterrey, Campus Querétaro, you have two main options regarding accommodation.

1) Live with a host family: Many international students who to study at the Tec choose to stay with a host family.  Queretanos (the people from the state of Querétaro) are known for being friendly and welcoming, and as family is really important to Mexicans, host families generally go out of their way to make students feel at home.

If you choose to stay with a host family, the arrangement is made through the university. This is helpful as it means that all host families have gone through the necessary checks and have been deemed suitable to provide accommodation to students.  When applying to stay with a host family you have to fill out a form stating your preferences such as whether you would like to live in a family that has children, the age of the children, pets, location etc. Host families provide breakfast and dinner and if you’re lucky, some make you a pack lunch for university!

2) Private accommodation: Private accommodation is readily available and usually quite easy to sort out. There are various ways of finding private accommodation but it can only be done once you arrive in Querétaro, which can be daunting prospect for many students. It is actually very simple so don’t worry! On arrival in Querétaro, the best thing to do is to stay in one of the hostels in the centre recommended on the Tec de Monterrey, Campus Querétaro website. Practically all the international students stay in hostels at the start so you can easily meet people of all nationalities who will be looking for accommodation. During the induction week, the university have a team of Mexican students on hand to help you find and view properties, and sign a contract. Most students live close enough to walk to university, with the historical centre (pictured above) being a popular choice for many people. Keep an eye out for posters and people looking for roommates. Advertising houses and rooms on posters and flyers taped to lampposts is normal in Querétaro and one of the only forms of advertising available, so do call up the numbers and arrange viewings. As in any country, never view a property or meet up with someone on your own.

Please note: Tecnológico de Monterrey is the name of the university, but there are many of them throughout Mexico. The only Tec de Monterrey that international students at King’s can go to is the one in Querétaro. You therefore have to look at the specific Campus Querétaro website in order to find all the relevant information.  

Reflections

My year abroad has been exhilarating and truly life changing. I spent my first semester in Querétaro in Mexico which is just over an hour from Mexico City and my second semester in the Basque Country, Spain.

Looking back now, it seems incredible how much my year abroad has made me progress not only academically with the newfound confidence that came from forcing myself to speak Spanish every day in Mexico and indeed living with a lovely Mexican family to fully immerse myself  (indeed, within a month I was dreaming in Spanish), but also personally. For example, in Spain I sought a different kind of experience that was more focused on becoming more independent by living with two other Basque students in a flat which I had yet to experience in my time at university thus far as I had been in a catered residence for my first two years and then obviously with a family where the rent was all-inclusive. Therefore, overall my experience became a truly enriching one as I had the advantage of living in two very different ways in two hugely different cultures within the Hispanic world and learnt how to make perfectly al dente pasta along the way.

 Myriad linguistic, social, educational and culinary dimensions came together and I can now look back and see that the great and the not so great (for example, when my housemates in Spain were at first far from warm, yet we later became good friends…) were all helpful in their own way in helping widen my horizons more and in helping me adapt to any situation I now find myself in in my life, especially when I travel to new countries. I am now very keen on living in a Spanish or Lusophone-speaking country not long after I finish my degree and feel I can adapt to anything and thrive anywhere. A little patience and acceptance of things when they go wrong and you could not have done anything more goes a long way on your year abroad.

In Mexico, the help of the Edith Baer funds immensely helped me take advantage of opportunities that would have otherwise remained out of reach and I actually lived what we were learning about in my Mexican and Latin American culture classes with trips to, for example, Chechen Itza with its incredible Mayan structures and Michoacán for the famous Day of the Dead.

I was also able to visit Mexico City more than once and see its wonderful museums and mix of people as well as see cultural events like theatre productions and the (in)famous Lucha Libre although I am not sure the particular luchador who I chatted to before he got on stage and asked if people are ever injured, to which he replied no and then promptly ended up in hospital, appreciated my presence.           

I had the chance to participate in an amazing fee-paying programme called Techo that aims to build techos  i.e.  sturdy homes for disadvantaged communities all over Latin America. Over three days we stayed solely within the community and built a house from scratch and I made friends for life with my group as well as learning a lot of obscure vocabulary in case I ever feel the urge to become a builder. Most crucially, we bonded with the local community and our family in particular who proved that no matter how little you may have in a materialistic sense, one can be happy, optimistic, generous and talented with what they do have that money cannot buy. We returned over the Christmas period to see them which was lovely and I realised then how much my Spanish had improved. It felt like I was giving a little back to a country that had given me so much.   Furthermore, I have had the chance to grow academically and branch out more so than I have ever done at King’s with modules that spanned culture, history, philosophy, literature and even a creative writing class in Spanish that made me write in a way I had never done writing academic essays up until that point. To get largely as good or better marks than native speakers by the end of the class showed how valuable and enjoyable that class was.

Chile

Oriana Knight, 2014-2015 at Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile

Accommodation

I arrived in Santiago with one suitcase and no idea of where I was going to stay. I arrived in July 2014 and my first thought was “It is freezing!”. Of course, I knew it would be winter in South America when I arrived, but I certainly never thought it was going to be so cold. Make sure you take some warm clothes, as the temperature really drops during the winter months! I had reserved a hostel for the first three nights so I went there before attempting to find accommodation. I was quite lucky in that I found some on my first day of searching. I stayed in a student house called Casa Suecia, which is a house of 32 students in Providencia, Santiago. Most students in Santiago stay in the areas Bellavista, Providencia or Irarrazaval, as they are convenient for most of the universities in the city and are also pretty central for exploring the city both by day and by night! An average rent in Santiago can be as little as 180.000 Chilean pesos a month (around £180 in GBP), although of course there are a lot more expensive also.

I paid 240.000 pesos a month, including bills, which was quite average but probably expensive for the quality of the things I got. Whilst Casa Suecia was definitely great in terms of ease (no bills, a house full of friends ready-made, cooking equipment and bed sheets provided), living in a house with so many people also meant that it was quite hard to find time to relax and that the communal areas could sometimes get quite dirty! There is a cleaner who comes in 6 days a week, but this is only for a few hours a day so by the end of each day there were filthy pots and pans everywhere and mess on all the surfaces! The landlady could also be quite strict sometimes, and tried to ban guests and alcohol (something near impossible to do in a student house!), so would sometimes turn up without notice to the house to check up on us. Perhaps if I were to do it again, I would look for other options, but the house definitely had a good location and transport links and it really was a very easy and stress-free option, so it is something to consider! Otherwise there are plenty of other options in Santiago which you can find online. Just make sure you check them out first to ensure that they are as advertised! 

Studying

As for studying, I attended the PUC in Santiago (“La católica” to the locals) and I was on the San Joaquín campus, where most humanities students are based. There are actually five campuses around the city, but the two main ones are the Casa Central campus, which is for sciences, and the San Joaquín campus. My campus was absolutely huge and very modern, and it took some working out at the beginning! However, at the induction day which you will attend before you start your studies (they will email you all the information for this) you get given maps and explanations of all the processes and how the classes are structured, which makes it a lot easier. Most international students take 3 to 4 courses and each course runs once a week for 1h40. At the beginning, I barely understood any of the lectures, especially due to the Chilean accent, but as the weeks progress it becomes easier each time so I would definitely say try to attend as many as possible! I definitely had a lot more assignments at PUC than I do back home at King’s College London, although I felt like the work at PUC, as it was more frequent, was not expected to have quite as much time put into it. They use a scale of 0-7 to rank the work, with a 4 being a pass, which was confusing at first but soon manageable! The university also runs courses specifically tailored for foreign students, which I did not do, but many of my friends did and they spoke very highly of them.  

Weekend activities

Santiago has a lot of culture to explore, and there are many free walking tours which start from the central Plaza de Armas, and are a good introduction to the city, especially in terms of learning its geography! ‘El museo de las memorías’, which documents Chile’s time under the dictator Pinochet is also something which is a must see and is very moving. By night, Santiago is very lively along the Pio Nono strip in Bellavista, which is very popular amongst students due to its cheap clubs and bars which are always completely filled. There are also many restaurants around there, as well as places to try the famous Chilean ‘chorillanas’ or a ‘pastel de choclo’, popular traditional Chilean dishes. The former consists of meat, eggs, onions and chips in huge quantities and is generally a sharing dish, and the latter is made of corn and meat. Other foods you must try are the ‘churrasco’ or a ‘lomito’ (Chilean takes on burgers) or an ‘as’ (a Chilean take on a hotdog), and of course, most of these come with avocado, arguably the most popular food in the whole of Chile! 

Reflections

Understandably, the idea of moving to study in Santiago de Chile is something which can seem daunting! I felt overwhelmed at the beginning, especially as I had never been out of Europe before even for a holiday, but I was surprised at how quickly I settled in. At the beginning it may seem impossible to feel settled in a foreign culture, speaking a foreign language and making new friends, but it really is surprising how quickly this begins to feel normal and the settling in process will happen very quickly. Naturally, this is made all the easier with a little bit of background knowledge and an idea of what to expect from your destination will hopefully ease the nerves about what will undoubtedly be an unforgettable experience.

For me, the thing which made the biggest impact on me was the opportunity travel and therefore to meet such a variety of people from all over South America. I believe that part of making the most of Study Abroad is to take the opportunity to explore new places, and South America is probably the best place to do this. I visited Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Brazil and various places in Chile and I would recommend travelling to everyone. You learn more about the different cultures, cuisines, dialects and people from each country and I feel that it teaches you a lot about the world. The differences between neighbouring countries in South America is staggering. The poverty in Bolivia contrasted to the more affluent country of Argentina is an interesting comparison, and wonders of the world such as Machu Picchu are things that you have to see whilst you have the chance. After studying in Chile, I definitely feel enriched in terms of my cultural knowledge and experiences and also in terms of what I learnt about myself along the way. Determination and perseverance are key to making the most out of Study Abroad, especially as there will of course be phases of homesickness (somehow always coinciding with deadlines), but these will pass especially if  make sure you take advantage of as many opportunities as possible along the way (it won’t give you time to think about home)! Don’t be worried if there are rough patches; these will pass and the whole experience will be over before you know it so don’t wish it away. No doubt your Study Abroad period in Santiago will be as rewarding as mine and if I could do it all over again I would in a heartbeat. ¡Buena suerte! 

Oliver Speed, 2014-2015 at Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile

Accommodation

I decided from the off that I would try and live with a local family, the idea being that they would help me find my feet once I arrived and give me the opportunity to practise my Spanish day in, day out. I found my host onhomestay.com, and with so many options available I felt it was going to be a case of just having to choose one and hope for the best. After taking various factors into consideration (location in relation to the university, safety of the neighbourhood, rules of the house etc.), I made a reservation a few days before I left London to stay with a lady named Nelly for the first two weeks of my time in Santiago. Having only exchanged the odd message with her, I didn’t really know what to expect when I arrived. Within just one week of arriving, I had already asked to extend my reservation for the entire five months of my stay.

I cannot stress enough how important a role my host played in my enjoyment and appreciation of my experience in Chile as a whole. In my opinion, studying abroad is, without doubt, as much about the experience outside the classroom as it is inside it, and you cannot truly feel part of a new country and culture without establishing some form of personal connection with the people themselves. Whilst my host herself was in fact from Uruguay, her entire family were Chilean and living in Santiago; I actually left feeling an expert in the two countries! I was made to feel part of the family – in every sense of the word – from the day that arrived until the day that I left, and whilst this does of course depend on the family you choose to stay with – should you decide to go that way – it also depends on you and your willingness to take part in and embrace something new. Doing it all in another language is difficult, there is no doubt about that, but it is incredibly rewarding and the key to a more genuine, profound relationship with the people you choose to stay with. You cannot underestimate the impact of making the effort to talk to someone in their own language and demonstrating a curiosity to get to know them; it will take you very far. The people you meet will be 99% of the reason you will want to return, however much you fall in love with the country itself.

Studying

The Pontificia Universidad Católica of Chile is an outstanding university: the top-ranked in the whole of South America at the time I was there. There are various campuses and you could be based at just one or at a couple, depending on your class choices. There is a huge array of options in terms of what you’ll be able to study, and it was certainly worth taking the time to put together a timetable that was both relevant to my degree at King’s and of interest to me on a more personal level. Chilean Spanish is notoriously tough for most native Spanish speakers, let alone foreigners, and it took me at least two months at the university to get used to their way of speaking. It seems like a long time, but it is very satisfying to be able to consistently measure your progress against your ability to understand and feel part of the class at one of the top academic institutions in the continent. Chile is much more reserved than its Latin neighbours such as Argentina and Brazil, and for that reason it can be harder to integrate as quickly and break into Chilean social circles that will have already been formed the previous semester. As with anything, it’s a question of throwing yourself into an unfamiliar situation, not shying away from speaking the language and breaking out of the comfort of your routine.

Weekend activities

I had never visited South America before and I certainly was not going to pass up the opportunity to make the most of my time there to travel around. The idea of travelling alone had never appealed to me, but they were some of the most exhilarating experiences I’ve ever had visiting Buenos Aires, Argentina and Montevideo, Uruguay on my own. I travelled all through Bolivia – the Uyuni Salt Flats, Lake Titicaca and La Paz – with my host (who, at sixty-four years old, climbed a volcano quicker than I did) and, my favourite trip of all, Easter Island. As one of the world’s most isolated islands I had never felt further from home in my life, but standing alongside the legendary Moai certainly justified breaking the bank to finance the trip! Sadly I didn’t have time to travel within Chile itself, but I’m saving all of that for when I go back…

Reflections

Having never been to South America before, I had no hesitation in opting to spend the first of my two semesters abroad in a continent I was so keen to discover. I chose Santiago, Chile, where I would be studying at thePontificia Universidad Católica (PUC), and little did I know that the city would go on to become my home away from home. 

This is just a taster of my experience in Santiago; everyone says it, but I really could write a book of all the things I got up to over the five months that I was there. If you ever get the chance to live and study somewhere you have never been before, grab it with both hands. I did not expect in any way to love South America, I always had the impression it would never suit my character, but how wrong I was. I’ve never had to say a goodbye as hard as the one on the morning I left to return to the UK, and strangely enough I actually felt that I was leaving home all over again. I looked at the flight prices to return two days after having arrived in back in London!

Peru

Joshua Nicol, 2012-2013 at Universidad del Pacifico

The City

Lima is a sprawling capital with nearly 10 million people. At first, this might seem quite off-putting, especially considering you may feel it’s no real change to the current metropolis you study in. Rest assured, it is completely different.

Firstly, practicalities. You will be in one of probably three districts: Miraflores (the best) Barranco (amazing but quite far from uni) or San Isidro (very close to uni but residential). I would recommend Miraflores as it is where the majority of exchange students live – it is very safe and close to bars, amazing restaurants, supermarkets and other amenities which you could want. This also applies to Barranco. It is one 30minute bus journey from university and costs 1 nuevo sol, 20p to you and I. The price you will pay for a nice flat in the heart of the action will unlikely exceed £250 a month.

Next, the social life. In comparison to London’s social scene which is spread all over the city, with places often far away from each other, Lima is a god send. The bars and clubs which you will frequent are all either walkable from Miraflores/Barranco, or a £2 taxi ride away. There is a scene for exchange students which helps you feel safe and you can party unperturbed. Also, there is a huge variety of nights out – from salsa to reggaeton to big techno nights, it’s safe to say Lima has it all covered.

The University

Universidad del Pacfíco is Peru’s top business university, so firstly it looks good on your CV and when applying to jobs. Its alumni are studious and very work oriented, but some of them you will see out at the best bars/clubs – so there’s a healthy balance. In terms of what it can offer a KCL humanities student, it is quite limited. Their humanities department is ever growing and a lot of their most popular courses are in English (so a no-go for SPLAS students!), however I studied courses such as Political Science and Contemporary Society’s Thoughts which were thought provoking. Overall, you will find the humanities courses straight forward given that you come from King’s College London. In my second semester I decided to branch out and study more business related courses such as Marketing and Management of Human Resources – these were inevitably more difficult as the Pacifico students had a wealth of knowledge about all things business whereas I was a novice. Furthermore, it is very possible to select coursework only courses, which will save you two weeks at the end of term, which may come in handy (I will explain later). The work load is only high around exam time, and attendance must be 70% or higher – but this really is not a problem if you choose your ‘offs’ wisely.

Travel

I went for a full year so managed to take advantage of the fact that Peruvian summer is over Christmas, meaning that I got nearly 4 months off university to travel the continent. I cannot overstate how unique that opportunity is and if you have serious intentions of travelling South America, Peru should be your destination of choice. Location-wise it is easy to go to Ecuador or Bolivia for a few days during term time, providing you go to classes when you’re in Lima you’ll have plenty of time to go on excursions (if you do coursework modules, you can save 2 weeks at the end of the semester, 1 for revision 1 for exams). You will find that the other exchange students are also very keen to travel, so even shortly after arriving in Peru you’ll have friends to explore South America with. I knew people who travelled Ecuador, Bolivia and even Northern Argentina during term time, so it is possible if you plan it out well.


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